India has long been plagued by the specter of the caste system, an ancient system of social stratification that left hundreds of millions of people living wretched lives of degradation, and poverty.  These were the Untouchables, and they faced harsh discrimination in all aspects of life - social, economic, and spiritual.

Discrimination based on caste was outlawed in 1947, when India gained Independence and formed its own constitution. But the system was deeply entrenched by then, and prejudice continued to deprive the lower castes of opportunities.

Things have improved considerably in urban centers, but caste bigotry can still be found in some rural areas. Rajasthan is one such region, a desert land that is home to thousands of traditional musician communities. Musician clans are considered to be among the lowest castes of all, and they are still striving for inclusion and respect. 

Song of the Dunes explores two of these clans, the Kalbelias and the Merasi, and their struggle against caste inequities that were set in motion thousands of years ago.

The caste system is known throughout the world primarily for the way it has oppressed the poor. During India’s long history, hundreds of millions of lower-caste people, called Untouchables, or Dalits (“downtrodden”), becametrapped in lives of segregation and destitution. It was the Dalits who swept the streets, managed sanitation, cremated dead bodies, did the leatherwork, which involved the taboo practice of working with animal skins, and performed all other menial tasks in the service of those of higher rank.

Because the Untouchables were tasked with unpleasant and unhealthy chores, they were thought to be un-clean, literally polluted.  If a member of a higher caste had any accidental contact with an Untouchable, or was even grazed by the shadow of one, that higher-caste person was considered to be contaminated and would have to perform purification rituals before being allowed back into his own caste.

Untouchables were painfully aware of how they were viewed by those of even slightly higher social rank. They were excluded from nearly all secular and sacred activities. In many cases, they were not allowed to enter temples to worship or to drink from the same water source as their “betters.” When moving from one place to another, some were made to ring a small bell to announce their approach so that members of a higher caste could leave the area in order to avoid them.  They were denied proper birth certificates and refused access to education.

Dalits could be harassed or attacked for the slightest perceived transgression, or simply for the fact that they were Untouchables. At times, they became the target of cruel and severe atrocities. They might be set on fire or tortured with boiling oil poured into their mouth and ears. The women might be raped by higher-caste men who were perversely intent on asserting their domination. And many Untouchables were simply murdered outright, disdained and loathed by prejudiced members of the upper castes.

Some say that such extreme violence was uncommon. But these things happened.  And there are reports that such attacks still occur in remote rural areas to this day.  It remains problematic for Dalits to turn to the authorities for help, because local officials are often indifferent to their plight.  As a result, many continue to live with the same fear and humiliation their ancestors experienced.

The caste system was an extremely complex organization of social hierarchy.  Scholars disagree on the origin of the system, which dates back thousands of years. Various theories have been set forth by researchers.

Many believe it originated from Hindu teachings about reincarnation and karma, in which each person’s fate is determined by actions accumulated in the course of many lifetimes. Actions create karma, and karma leads to the circumstances of any given lifetime.  A person’s karma will cause him or her to be born into a particular family in a particular caste. So the rich are simply enjoying the fruits of good karma, while the poor are experiencing the consequences of bad karma. This notion was formalized by the “Mani Laws,” which were based on ancient teachings.  Considered sacred laws, they were not to be questioned.

Other scholars suggest that the caste system came from a Utopian effort to organize early agricultural civilization by division of labor. Each group had a job to do, and together they assured the success of their society. Peasants handled menial tasks, and rulers rewarded them fairly for their efforts. Theoretically, this plan was devoid of discrimination, since the groups relied equally upon each other for survival.

If this idealistic culture existed at all, it is unlikely that it lasted for long.  Inevitably, it was undermined by greed and corruption. The gap between workers and rulers grew wider, and the system deteriorated into what we know as the caste system, with all its accompanying inequality.

We may never know the exact origin of the caste system, but we do know that it created a country of sanctioned socio-economic injustice that marginalized millions of people.

It is commonly believed that Untouchables constitute the lowest caste in India.  But most scholars agree that Untouchables were actually excluded from the caste system altogether.  Too inferior for any status in society, they were completely discarded, they were literally “outcast.”

India was influenced by many cultures during its richly textured history.  From invaders, to merchants, to simple travelers, outsiders came to the country from far and wide. Some settled there, some passed through, but they all left their mark.  The culture seemed to be in a continuous state of flux and change, for better or worse.

In the modern era, it was the British Empire that had the most notable impact on the country.  British tea merchants had been traveling to India for some time, with British influence escalating in the process. Official British Rule was established in the late 1800’s, and India became a colonial nation. The British set out to organize the country for the purpose of taking a census that would help them govern. They formally classified people by caste and sub-caste, thus codifying the caste system and making it even more rigid than ever.

The British brought with them a European notion of a class system, which they overlaid onto the Indian caste system. Caste and class distinctions overlapped conveniently, and the upper castes gained more privilege while the lower castes sank even deeper into poverty. Most would agree that by now the caste system has all but disappeared and that today’s India operates under a class system instead. The name may have changed, but many of the problems persist.

To their credit, The British passed a law in 1935 aimed at addressing discrimination against the lower castes. The Untouchables were listed under a new category called “Scheduled Classes,” which worked as a kind of affirmative action program.  Untouchables were given more rights and opportunities, especially in terms of education and participation in government.  Quotas were set to guarantee that a certain percentage of them would benefit directly.

But the plan enflamed caste prejudices and triggered wide-spread resentment.  Many in the upper castes believed that Untouchables were not worthy of such assistance, and they saw the quota system as a form of reverse discrimination.

Angry bigots took to the streets to keep Untouchables “in their place.”  Untouchable activists and other social reformers fought back. The conflict led to bloody clashes and riots, and the issue remains a point of contention to this day.  Ultimately, the laws have helped Untouchables up to a point, but many still struggle against discrimination.

It should be noted that there were reformers throughout history who tried to establish social justice in India. Their efforts where noble, but ultimately ineffective.

Mahatma Gandhi is revered as the leader of the most successful reform movement in modern-day India. Committed to the cause of justice, he dedicated his life to helping the poor - not just the lower castes, but also workers who were being exploited for cheap labor by British companies.

Gandhi organized a non-violent movement for Independence from British Rule, insisting that his followers use only pacifist tactics such as strikes, marches, fasts, and acts of civil disobedience.  More and more people joined in, and the movement gained both momentum and global attention.

He also set up centers and organizations to help the poorest of the poor. He disliked the derogatory term “Untouchable” and instead referred to the poor as Harijan, which means “Children of God.”  He treated them with a sort of love and respect they had never known before. Some felt that the term Harijan was condescending, and they preferred to be called Dalits. Still, it is clear that Gandhi brought great social progress to the country.

India finally gained Independence in 1947. This marked a profound turning point for the country and its social structure. But Independence came at a terrible price, as Hindus and Muslims vied for control of the new nation.  Horrendous violence erupted, millions of people were killed or displaced, and the country was split in two - Hindu majority India and Muslim Pakistan, two countries that are still in perilous conflict today. 

In the new Independent India, attitudes toward the caste system slowly began to shift as a more democratic society emerged.  But such change takes time.  As recently as 1989, the government tacitly acknowledged an ongoing problem of caste discrimination when they passed the  “Prevention of Atrocities Act” as a new attempt to protect Untouchables from persecution. As India grew into the powerful modern country that it is today, caste barriers have broken down to a large extent, at least in the cities.

It is a different story in some rural areas, however, where the sting of the old caste system can still be felt.

Rajasthan is one region where many of the old ways are still in evidence.  A vast desert land that borders on Pakistan, Rajasthan is a tribal area where the people inherit their occupations and can still trace their heritage back hundreds of years.  Although the lowest caste people come from different backgrounds, they have one thing in common: they have long been considered Untouchables.

There are countless musician clans living in the great Thar Desert of Rajasthan.  Many still travel back and forth between India and Pakistan to study and play the great ancient music of their tribes.  These musicians offer a rich cultural dimension to the country, but they must still struggle to survive and maintain their tradition while contending with the lingering effects of the caste system.

The Kalbelias have traditionally been known for their skills as snake charmers. They are called upon by rich and poor alike to cure snakebites and remove dangerous serpents from homes and fields.  Because of their uncanny ability to cure people suffering from snakebites and other ailments, they are considered to be great healers.

Kalbelia snake charmers tame their snakes by playing a traditional wind instrument, a pungi, while staring into the snake’s eyes and weaving gently back and forth. The snake seems to become hypnotized, and it starts to sway along with the motion of its tamer. Snake charming is illegal in India now, but Kalbelias still perform the ritual on occasion to earn money from tourists.

They are also known for thier unique music and dance forms, and it is said that the movement of snakes is reflected in the sinuous style of their dances. Like other Rajasthan clans, the Kalbelias have kept their ancient music alive to this day. They perform at a variety of ceremonies, choosing to play traditional music or new compositions depending on the occasion. 

But while their music is valued, The Kalbelias themselves are often treated as nothing more than gypsies and beggars. Untouchables. They may be “good enough” to perform at a local wedding, for example, but not “good enough” to enter the tent or home where the celebration is taking place. They must stay outside where the guests can watch them without risking contamination from close contact. It is the same when they are hired to play at royal courts. They must remain outside the palace grounds, segregated from the upper castes and royal guests.

Poverty makes it impossible for them to provide their families with secure shelter and wholesome living conditions. Prejudice cuts the Kalbelias off from basic opportunities - such as getting an education and finding decent employment - that would help lift their status and lifestyle.

While the Kalbelias face discrimination in India, they are gaining international attention for their vibrant music and dance. Thanks to modern technology and the growth of global awareness and interest in ethnic cultures, they are now recording CDs and performing around the world at international music festivals. Their popularity is growing as more and more people become aware of them. 

There is hope that the respect they are earning on the global stage will help change attitudes toward them in their own country. But for now, their struggle against discrimination and exclusion continues.

While the Kalbelias come from a Hindu background, their neighboring tribe the Merasi come from Muslim roots. In a region where Hindus and Muslims have had such a deadly history of conflict, it is striking that these two music communities get along with each other and perform at the same festivals. They have been influenced by both faiths for hundreds of years, and they are proof that people of different religious backgrounds can co-exist in peace.

The Merasi are sometimes referred to as Manganiyars (“beggars”), but this is a profoundly derogatory term, similar to a racial slur.  The insulting designation was given to them by the upper castes, and it reflects the historical prejudice against Untouchables.

Unfortunately, tourist boards often market these musicians under the name Manganiyar, so there are people around the world who may be using the term without understanding its implications. It is also true that sometimes these musicians resign themselves to being called Manganiyars at home in order to avoid conflicts with higher castes.

But their own name, their true name, is Merasi. And it is important for the world to understand the significance of the two terms and to start using the proper one.

The Merasi are known as the storytellers.  They have kept the history of the Silk Road alive through their songs. They sing about the great historical battles and heroic deeds that were witnessed by their ancestors, who would often follow the Maharajas into battle to play music and perform the songs at sacred burial rights as needed. In those days, they were supported by the royal patronage of such Maharajas.

The Merasi are also known as the region’s genealogists, using songs to preserve the lineages of rulers, notable families, and humble clans such as their own.  They also sing about the folk tales and legends of old. So the Merasi are not only unique musicians, they are also an irreplaceable source of historical and cultural information of the Silk Road region.

But like the Kalbelias, the Merasi belong to a lowly  musician caste and are still regarded as Untouchables. They face the same kind of persecution and severe hardship. No longer supported by royal patronage as in the old days, they now earn a meager living performing at village events and palaces - always from a distance, still banned from entering. They rely heavily on tourists who pay to hear them, often performing in hotels.

Along with other Rajasthani musicians, the Merasi have been gaining considerable attention outside India, touring with  World music troupes, and recording CDs.  Their growing international popularity has been noted back home.  In 2007 the Rajasthan International Folk Festival was established through a joint initiative of the Merangarh Museum Trust and the Jaipur Virasat Foundation. 

Also known as the Rajasthan International Folk Festival, this annual event has already become a great success, attracting musicians and audiences from around the world. Merasi and Kalbelias are among the many Rajasthani clans who perform at this colorful desert festival set in the ancient dramatic Merangarh Fort under the light of the moon. The Patrons of the RIFF are His Highness Gaj Singh II, Maharaja of Jodhpur, and Sir Mick Jagger, who are working to raise awareness and support for the musicians, to keep their artistic traditions from becoming extinct.

The onslaught of both Bollywood film music and modern Western culture, beamed into villages across India by satellite dishes, also threatens the musical traditions of these clans. With some of their newfound income, the Merasi have established several schools to make sure their music and stories are passed down to the next generations. It is a financial struggle to maintain the schools, but they are determined to sustain them in order to assure the survival of their music and traditions.

The Kalbelias and the Merasi are national treasures of India. The whole world can benefit from their lovely music, song, and dance, as well as from their knowledge of the ancient customs. Their artistry may finally be gaining more appreciation, but many of them are still being subjected to exclusion and persecution based on ancient caste prejudice.
It is heartbreaking. 

But these days, we can all help preserve these clans by giving them the support and respect they deserve. Whether we simply become aware of them, or choose to purchase their CDs, or donate to organizations that work with them, we can help in the effort to uplift them and assure that their traditions will not only survive – but thrive.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE VISIT

www.jaipurvirasatfoundation.org

www.jodhpurfolkfestival.org

www.folkartsrajasthan.org

www.merasischool.org

www.RainbowTravels.In   

www.youtube.com   (search “Kalbelia” and “Merasi” for videos)