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Tribes of musicians have lived in the Thar desert along the India Pakistan border for a thousand years. The Manganiyars and Kalbelias have entertained at ceremonies since the day Europeans were still living in caves. Their occupation and status is determined at birth by the caste system. They are Untouchables. Yet although the caste system was made illegal over 50 years ago, it still runs their lives, an entire existence that is based in avoiding cross contamination, as they are considered by higher caste people to be impure.
The Manganyar and Kalbeliya tribes have been entertaining at marriages and ceremonies since the day when Europeans were still living in caves. Here on the India Pakistan border lies the Silk Road where camel caravans have carried precious wares for millennia across Asia and China. Huge Forts rise like mirages in hundreds of miles of deserted sand dunes. Besides a few small villages, the only other thing here is Pokran – the testing site for the nucleur bomb.
The Manganiyar and Kalbelia tribes are hereditary caste musicians, born into their station in life due to the ancient Hindu castes system, a hierarchy of professions and status. In the countryside, it is still alive today. Their station in life is dictated by this system, and they are trapped on the bottom rung of society, without opportunity. Many have converted to Islam to escape their dire prospects. Often by following the mystical sounds of the wandering Sufi minstrel – saints.
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Nowadays, since the demise of the princely states when India became a republic, the
musicians no longer have Royal patronage. They depend on tourism and local marriages
and ceremonies for their livelihood. The Manganiyars of Kanoi village near Jaisalmer
are exceptional musicians, no longer able to play in the courts of the Maharajas of
Rajasthan. The Khans are a family of musicians who struggle to even afford their
marriage ceremonies. Right now, Ideh is ready to marry and can’t, and his father
Channan teaches the village boys music to make ends meet.
The Kalbeliyas of Jodhpur are a tribe of snake charmers, only the charming of the cobras
that is their usual bread and butter is banned. Pooma the snake charmer is wondering
how to survive. The Kalbeliyas are in a struggle to keep their homes, as the government
doesn’t recognize them, they have squatted on their land. And now nine of the homes in
their close knit village are being knocked down. Dhakon the healer, and Ponam Nath the
snake charmer are both at risk. And they are the very ones who keep their traditions alive.
They implore the film crew to take a letter to the Maharaja of Jodhpur, requesting his help.
Known as a kindly figure, the Maharaja, living in his stately palace, does all he can
to help them.
Neither the Manganiyars nor the Kalbeliyas are allowed to worship in the small Hindu
temples in the countryside around Jaisalmer and Jodhpur. Finally after years of struggle,
the tribe is dedicating a temple they have built to their patron God, Guru Kanipav Nath.
In a huge festival, they celebrate this great moment and rejoice at the wonderful occasion
of finally reaching the point. |
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